Siem Reap ha become a tourist destination for only one reason - the temples of Angkor Wat , which are among the world's most magnificent historical monuments. The gateway to Angkor Wat, Siem Reap is a small colonial town that has been receiving temple hunting foreigners for over 100 years. Originally the area was home to a number of small villages centered around individual pagodas, however with the arrival of the French and Henri Mouhot ‘re-discovering' the Angkor temples in the 19th century, Siem Reap became a colonial-era centre. Today you can still see remnants of the colonial architecture, particularly around the Old Market (Phsar Chas) area, as well as the pagodas of the original villages, which along with the river flowing through the center makes Siem Reap a pleasant town to stroll around. During the last 10 years as Cambodia has become safer the number of visitors has grown dramatically, as has the diversity and range of the associated hotels, restaurants, shops, spas, and bars - Siem Reap now even boasts 2 international standard golf courses!

The temples of Angkor Wat are the main reason for visiting Siem Reap. However, there are a number of attractions within the town itself. Buddhist pagodas are the traditional seat of Khmer culture, and as Siem Reap has developed around a number of old pagodas such as, Wat Bo and Wat Keseram , a visit to at least one is a must. Other attractions include the Cambodian Cultural Village , Artisans d'Angkor , Aki Ra Land Mine Museum , and the Butterflies of Angkor garden . Additional highlights that should not be missed whilst staying in Siem Reap are a traditional graceful apsara dance , most often combined with more jovial village dances, and an exciting shadow puppet performance . If all the temple touring and Siem Reap shopping tire you out, no problem, there are now a large number of luxury spas in town where you can receive a revitalising and relaxing massage.

Finally, Siem Reap is only 15km north of the Tonle Sap , the largest lake in South East Asia, taking a cruise on the lake and witnessing the fascinating lifestyles of the people living in its floating villages, as well as the array of birdlife, makes for a wonderful experience.

Angkor Thom is a 3km sq walled and moated Royal city, was the last capital of the Angkorian Empire, and home to Angkor's greatest king, Jayavarman VII. After Jayavarman VII re-captured the Angkorian capital from the Cham invaders in 1181, he began a massive building campaign across the Empire, constructing Angkor Thom as his new capital city. He began with existing structures such as Baphuon and Phimeanakas and built a grand enclosed city around them, adding the outer wall and moat, and some of Angkor's greatest temples, including his state temple, Bayon, set at the centre of the city. There are 5 entrances (gates) to the city; one for each cardinal point, and the Victory Gate leading to the Royal Palace area. Each gate is crowned with 4 giant smiling faces. The South Gate is often the first stop on a tour of the temples.

Angkor Wat , the world's largest religious building, is unmistakable with its five magnificent towers and vast complex of galleries �" it is not only an artistic feat but an emotional experience; no amount of background research quite prepares you for the real thing… Angkor Wat was built for King Suryavarman II in the early 12th century as his capital city, and today it still epitomizes classical Khmer architecture and culture and is even featured on Cambodia's national flag, the world's only flag which features a building. After being initially impressed by its overall size and the grandeur and harmony of its architecture which will have set your heart a-flutter with anticipation, you walk across the 200m causeway, crossing the 4km encompassing moat, to the main entrance with excitement building, and as you enter, you discover you have only passed an outer wall. Going further, distracted and awed by the bas-reliefs on every surface, is the first of three concentric chambers with hallways 400 meters long, and covered with thousands of bas-relief sculptures, each of these three galleries rising above the next. Once you have entered the inner sanctum and climbed the final precipitous set of stone stairs, almost vertically pitched, you turn around and are treated to a true spectacle of the Khmer Empire laid out beneath you - the lower towers, the courtyards, the pools, the causeway, the outer walls of the complex; the magnificent moat; and Phnom Bakheng in the distance. Discovering Angkor Wat is truly a memorable experience and one that will stay with you for a lifetime.

Bakong is the most impressive member of the Roluos Group, sitting at the center of the first Khmer capital, Hariharalaya. Bakong stands 15 meters tall and is 650x850 meters at the outer wall. Constructed by the third Angkorian-era king as his state temple, Bakong represents the first application of the temple-mountain architectural form on a grand scale, and set the architectural tone for the next 400 years. The temple displays a very early use of stone rather than brick. Though begun by Indravarman I, Bakong received additions and was expanded by later kings. The uppermost section and tower may have been added as late as the 12th century AD. Some of the lintel carvings, particularly on the outer towers, are in very good shape. It is a very picturesque temple being surrounded by a moat and lush vegetation, being 'lost' in the jungle until 1936.

Banteay Kdei is a sprawling, largely unrestored, monastic complex in much the same style as Ta Prohm. It was originally constructed over the site of an earlier temple, and functioned as a Buddhist monastery under Jayavarman VII. As with other works of Jayavarman VII's era, it is a tightly packed architectural muddle, which like the Bayon, suffered from several changes in the plans at the time of construction. It was also built using an inferior grade of sandstone and using poor construction techniques, leading to much of the deterioration visible today. A restoration project is underway on many of the towers and corridors, and some areas are blocked off. The foundation stele of the temple has not been found so there is no record of to whom it is dedicated. The 13th century vandalism of Buddha images that is seen on many Jayavarman VII temples is quite apparent on Banteay Kdei.

Banteay Samre is a large, relatively flat temple near the south east corner of the East Baray, and has undergone extensive restoration this century. Banteay Samre was constructed around the same time as Angkor Wat. The style of the towers and balustrades bear strong resemblance to the towers of Angkor Wat and even more so to the Khmer temple of Phimai in Thailand. Many of the carvings are in excellent condition. The journey to Banteay Samre is a nice little road excursion through villages and paddie fields.

Banteay Srei loosely translates to 'Fortress of the Women' thanks to the intricate carvings found here, considered too fine for the hands of a man. banteay Srei was built at a time when the Khmer Empire was gaining significant power and territory. The temple was constructed by a Brahmin counselor under a powerful king, Rajendravarman and later under Jayavarman V. Banteay Srei displays some of the finest examples of classical Khmer art. The walls are densely covered with some of the most beautiful, deep and intricate carvings of any Angkorian temple. The temple's relatively small size, pink sandstone construction, and ornate design give it a fairyland ambiance. The colors are best before 10:30am and after 2:00pm, but there are fewer tourists in the afternoon. This temple was discovered by French archaeologists relatively late, in 1914. Banteay Srei lies 30km north of the main Angkor Wat complex requiring extra travel time, however the extra effort is well worth it.

Baphuon temple was built in the reign of King Udayadityavarman II (1050-66), and features some of the finest sculptures ever found in Angkor. The beautifully carved lintels, doorframes and columns are the main attraction of the Baphuon. However, the most striking beauty of Baphuon is its bas-relief that stretches for hundreds of yards. The long carved stone depicts scenes from Hindu mythologies (Mahabharata and Ramayana) and a scene of Suryavarman holding court. One feature to look out for is the large reclining Buddha on the west side added to the temple at a much later period. Unfortunately, much of the temple collapsed due to design flaws, however fortunately the main temple area is currently undergoing extensive restoration which means that not all of it is open to the public.

The Bayon sits at the centre of Angkor Thom and is famed for the many giant stone faces which have become one of the most recognisable images connected to classic Khmer art and architecture. Originally there were 54 towers each featuring four carved faces oriented toward the cardinal points (only 37 towers remain standing). Who the faces represent is a matter of debate but they may be Loksvara, Mahayana Buddhism's compassionate Bodhisattva, or perhaps a combination of Buddha and Jayavarman VII. The Bayon was Jayavarman VII's state-temple and in many ways represents the pinnacle of his massive building campaign. As well as the faces smiling down at you the Bayon features fascinating bas-reliefs on its exterior walls. Some of these bas-reliefs contain real-life scenes from the historical sea battle between the Khmers and the Cham, and others give a unique insight into Angkorian daily life depicting market scenes, cockfighting, chess games and childbirth.

Beng Mealea is a sprawling temple covering over one sq km and until recently was a slumbering giant lost for centuries in the jungles of Cambodia. The temple has been consumed by the voracious appetite of nature and is largely overrun by vegetation. Lying 75km east of Siem Reap it is lightly touristed, giving it an adventurous 'lost in the jungle' feel. With trees growing from broken towers and galleries Beng Mealea offers photographers some of the best 'tree in temple' shots aside from Ta Prohm. Constructed in a distinctly Angkor Wat style by the same king, Suryavarman II, that built Angkor Wat, Beng Mealea preceded and may have served as a prototype of sorts for Angkor Wat. Though there are some lintel and doorway carvings, there are no bas-reliefs and the carvings are comparatively sparse. When the temple was active the walls may have been covered with paintings and frescos. In its time Beng Mealea was at the crossroads of several major highways that ran to Angkor Wat, Koh Ker, Preah Vihear (in northern Cambodia) and to northern Vietnam. Beng Mealea is a half day trip in its own right - but well worth the experience.

The East Mebon is a small temple built in the reign of king Rajendravarman. Jayavarman IV, a usurper to the throne, moved the capital from Angkor to Koh Ker in 928AD. Sixteen years later Rajendravarman II returned the capital to Angkor and quickly constructed the East Mebon on an island in the middle of the now dry Eastern Baray, a thousand years ago the waters of the East Baray would have lapped around the temple's foundations. The temple is dedicated to Shiva in honor of the king's parents. Inscriptions indicate that it was also built to help reestablish the continuity of kingship at Angkor in light of the interruption that occurred when the seat of power had been moved to Koh Ker.

Kbal Spean , the original 'River of a Thousand Lingas', is relatively new to many tourists due to its rugged terrain. Located on the holy mountain of Phnom Kulen, these 11th century intricate riverbed rock carvings are set in a secluded forest. As you approach a gallery of fine rock carvings gradually unfolds, including carvings of Vishnu reclining by a Naga (a giant serpent with multiple heads), Lakshmi, Rama and Hanuman. In the middle of the stream lie thousands of sculpted lingas or phallic images and a large underwater representation of a yoni(womb). These sculptures were lavishly made with a specific purpose - the lingas in the riverbed were to bless the stream of Kbal Spean that flows down through the city of Angkor, blessing its waters with fertility for the vitally important lowland rice fields. To reach the Kbal Spean riverbed carvings a 40 minute uphill trek is required, the path winds its way through knotted vines and big boulder formations and occasionally offers big views over the surrounding jungle.

The Kleangs are a series of rectangular sandstone buildings set opposite the Terrace of Elephants inside Angkor Thom. 'Kleang' means 'storeroom' but it is unlikely that this was the function of these structures. A royal oath of allegiance is carved into the doorway of one Kleang indicating that they may have served as reception areas or even housing for visiting noblemen and ambassadors. The North Kleang was built in wood under Rajendravarman II and then rebuilt in stone by Jayavarman V, probably before the construction of the South Kleang. The Kleangs are unremarkable upon close inspection but picturesque from a distance, they take on a delightful golden glow as the sunlight softens in the late afternoon.

Lolei is part of the Roluos group and was an island temple consisting of four brick towers on a double laterite platform, when it was built it was located in the center of the first large-scalereservoir (baray) constructed by a Khmer king (now dried up). Lolei was the last major temple built at Roluos before Yasovarman I moved the capital to the Angkor area. Though the towers are in poor condition there are some good lintel carvings, as well as some beautifully artistic calligraphy inscriptions to be admired on all the door jambs. An active modern-day pagoda has been built amongst the ruins.

Neak Pean ia a tiny temple and was built by Jayarvarman VII. The King ordered the construction of a vast baray (reservoir) east of Preah Khan temple to provide water to its hundred-thousand support workers. Stretching a half kilometer by 900 meters the artificial lake stored millions of cubic meters of water to irrigate the rice fields during the dry season. Neak Pean (originally called 'Rajasri' but took its modern name which means 'coiled serpents' from the encoiled nagas that encircled the temple), sits at the center of this baray. It once consisted of a square pond, measuring 70m x 70m, surrounded by four smaller ponds, which in turn were surrounded by eight more ponds. At the very center of the complex was a tiny island with a single tower made of sandstone. The significance of Neak Pean is not known, however experts beleive that Neak Pean represents Anavatapta, a mythical lake in the Himalayas whose waters are thought to cure all illness. During the dry season when the water is low look out for the animal and human head waterspouts at the outside center of each pool. Neak Pean is most photogenic in the wet season when the pools are full.

Phimeanakas was constructed as a state-temple by Suryavarman and was the first palace to be built within fortifying walls, it later became absorbed into Angkor Thom which was built around 200 years later. There was a golden tower that crowned the temple and legend has it the temple was home ta a spirit which took the form of a serpent by day and a beautiful woman by night. The king had to visit this beautiful woman every night, if he failed to turn up disaster would follow. Phimeanakas is the tallest scalable temple in Angkor Thom providing great views from the top.

Phnom Bakheng was the first major temple to be constructed in the Angkor area and marked the moving of the capital of the Khmer Empire from Roluos to Angkor in the late 9th century. It served as Yasovarman I's state-temple at the centre of his new capital city of Yasodharapura. The foundation of Bakheng is carved from the existing rock rather than being the laterite and earth fill of most other Angkor temples. Bakheng's hilltop location makes it the most popular sunset location in the area, offering a view of the Tonle Sap lake, the immense Western Baray, and a distant Angkor Wat in the jungle. However, this popularity can detract from the experience. To assist with the steep climb up Phnom Bakheng elephant rides are available.

Phnom Krom is a large hill 15km south of Siem Reap overlooking the vast expanse of the Tonle Sap lake (the largest lake in South East Asia). At the top of Phnom Krom is a modern pagoda, however within its grounds you will find a ruined late 9th century temple built by Yasovarman I. The three crumbling sandstone towers, dedicated to Vishnu, Shiva, and Brahma, stand in a row on a low platform, and a few carvings can still be made out. Whilst the ruins themselves are not anything special the view from the top of the hill is - it makes for an excellent alternative sunset viewing spot as the lowering sun shimmers on the waters of the lake and surrounding paddy fields.

Phnom Kulen is considered particularly sacred by Khmers as it is regarded as the birthplace of the ancient Angkor Empire, it was here that King Jayavarma II proclaimed independence from Java in the year 802, and Phnom Kulen became the Empire's first capital. Phnom Kulen is a large upland area about 45km northwest of Siem Reap and there are many ancient temple sites scattered amongst the jungle on the vast plateau. However, as the area has only recently opened up to tourists many of these temple ruins are inaccessible. The reasons for visiting Phnom Kulen are to witness a massive 15th century reclining Buddha carved out of a huge protruding rock, to see the many lingas carved into the bedrock of the river (this is the source of the river that flows through Siem Reap), and to take a refreshing dip in the plunge pools of the regions largest waterfalls. The journey is also worth experiencing, taking you away from the ‘touristy' Angkor temples, through traditional villages, past lush green paddy fields, and then climbing Phnom Kulen itself, surrounded by jungle and sandstone outcrops. Phnom Kulen is a magical place and is well worth visiting if you have the time.

Prasat Kravan was built in the year 921 by a nobleman rather than a king, and its unique brick towers contain large wall sculptures of Vishnu and Lakshmi (an inscription on the door jambs mentions the placement of a statue of Vishnu in 921AD). Unlike other temples at Angkor it has an unusual five-part facade with all the towers in a row. In the mid-60s Prasat Kravan was extensively restored by French archaeologists, look out for the replacement bricks which have 'CA' stamped on them. For photography it is best visited in the morning when the sunlight is on the front of the towers.

Pre Rup is best approached from the west, where this archetypal temple-mountain, stylish and well proportioned, is seen in its full majesty standing out against the rice fields. King Rajendravarman II, who engineered the return of the Khmer Empire capital from Koh Ker to Angkor after a period of political upheaval, founded Pre Rup as his state-temple - it was the second temple to be built after the capital's return. Pre Rup means 'turning the body' and Khmer tradition says this temple was used for cremations. On the upper level there are beautifully carved false doors as well as excellent views of the surrounding countryside, looking east you will see Phnom Bok in the foreground and the mountain chain of Phnom Kulen in the distance, and looking west you will be able to make out the towers of Angkor Wat on the horizon. As the temple is built entirely of brick and laterite the warm tones of these materials are best seen early in the morning or when the sun is setting over the beautiful Cambodian rice fields.

Preah Khan , meaning 'sacred sword', is a huge, highly explorable monastic complex, full of carvings, passages and photo opportunities. It originally served as a Buddhist monastery and school, yet it was more than just a monastery, it was an entire city enclosing a town of 56 hectares. About 100,000 farmers produced rice to feed about 15,000 monks, teachers, and students. For a short period it was also the residence of King Jayavarman VII whilst he awaited the re-construction of his permanent home in Angkor Thom. It is sprawling complex of infinite corridors and sensuous carvings, however many of the Buddha images were vandalised in the later Hindu resurgence, and some of the Buddha carvings in the central corridor have been crudely carved over with Bodhisattvas, and in a couple of odd cases, a lotus flower and a linga. Also to note are the many small holes in all the walls in the center of the building, it is said that originally every hole contained gold and diamonds which were stolen and resold by the Khmer Rouge.

Preah Ko is in the Roluos Group and was one of the first major temples of the Angkor Empire at the early Khmer capital of Hariharalaya, constructed by Indravarman I. Preah Ko, meaning 'Sacred Bull', derives its name from the statues of bulls at the front of the central towers. Many of the carvings are in very good condition providing excellent examples of the period. Preah Ko is distinguished from other temples in the area by the unusual arrangement of its six central towers which stand in two rows facing east. It is said that the three towers to the west, which are shorter, were built for the spirits of former queens, and archaeologist claim that the octagonal colonettes surrounding the doors are among the finest examples of decorative carving in Khmer art.

Sra Srang , meaning 'Royal Bathing Pool', is a picturesque baray (reservoir) opposite the east entrance of Banteay Kdei, and is one of the few Angkor barays that still holds water. It was originally completed during the reign of Rajendravarman but was re-modeled and enlarged in the 12th century as part of Jayavarman VII's massive building campaign. It was Jayavarman VII who added the beautiful boat landing. Sra Srang is thought to have been a natural lake which helps explain why it still holds water. During the height of the dry season the sparse remains of an island temple can be seen in the middle of the lake. Sra Srang offers a pleasant, much less touristed, sunrise alternative to Angkor Wat.

Takeo is a towering but plainly decorated temple-mountain pyramid dedicated to Shiva, and consists of five levels reaching a total height of 22m. It was constructed as a state-temple by Jayavarman V, and the first two levels form the base while the final three, reducing in size the higher they get, form the base for the five tower sanctuaries. Takeo was known as 'the mountain with golden peaks', and was the first temple to be constructed wholly of sandstone. Many Angkorian temples are partially unfinished, but Takeo seems to have stopped construction particularly early in the decoration phase of construction as there are very few carvings. Little is known about why construction was halted, however one school of thought believes after the death of Jayavarman V there was a violent usurpation by Suryavarman I in 1001AD who ordered the work to stop. Takeo is an interesting temple well worth a visit, but if you are pressed for time see Pre Rup instead.

Ta Prohm is a quiet, sprawling, jungle clad, monastic complex, made famous by the Hollywood blockbuster ‘Tomb Raider'. One of Jayavarman VII's first major temples Ta Prohm has been intentionally left as it was re-discovered by French explorers in 1860. The massive fig and silk-cotton trees that grow from the towers and corridors are testament to the destructive force of the jungle and demonstrates the awesome power of nature. In its hey-day Ta Prohm was extremely wealthy, boasting control of over 3,000 villages, having a huge support staff, and maintaining vast stores of jewels and gold. To explore Ta Phrom today involves climbing over piles of fallen sandstone blocks or crouching through narrow dark passages, whilst flocks of noisy parrots flit from tree to tree adding to the jungle atmosphere. Ta Prohm is almost universally accepted as the most romantic temple, and coupled with its unbeatable ‘tree-in-temple' photo opportunities, it should be included in every visit to the magnificent temples of Angkor.

Ta Som is the most distant temple on the Grand Circuit. Small but classic, this Jayavarman VII temple consists of a relatively flat enclosure with towers much like the temple of Ta Prohm yet on a much smaller scale. The execution of the apsara carvings is better than many of the other late 12th century works, many of them showing an uncommon individuality in their faces and bodies. A huge tree grows from the top of the east gopura (gate), it is slowly destroying the gate but it makes for a classic photo opportunity. It is best photographed in the early morning when the sun is low from the outside of the enclosure.

The Terrace of the Elephants is part of the walled city of Angkor Thom and was built by Jayavarman VII. The 350m long, 3.5m high terrace was used as a giant viewing platform for public ceremonies, greeting victorious returning armies, and also serving as a base for the King's grand audience hall. There are five staircases leading to the top of the terrace each one flanked by large elephant heads and furnished with naga balustrades. The walls are carved with various court scenes, including lions, garudas, and of course the famous parade of elephants complete with their Khmer mahouts.

Close to the Terrace of the Elephants is another Jayavarman VII commissioned terrace, the unattractively named Terrace of the Leper King . The terrace was named after the statue of the Leper King that sits on top. However, why the statue is known as the 'Leper King' is less clear, some argue that when the statue was found its lichen-eaten condition gave it the appearance of leprosy, others have argued that it is a statue of an Angkorian king who in Khmer legend suffered from the disease. It is difficult to see for yourself as the Leper King statue sitting proudly on the Terrace today is a replica, the original resides in the National Museum in Phnom Penh. The Terrace is deeply carved with nagas, demons, and other mythological beings, and it is believed to have been used for royal cremations.

West Mebon (late 11th century) • Minor Ruin

The West Mebon east wall is a small island temple built under the rule of Udayadityavarman II and is in a very poor condition, located on an island in the middle of the West Baray. The West Baray was an enormous reservoir 8km long and 2km wide, which experts claim would have taken 6,000 men over three years to complete. It still holds water today and has become a popular picnic and swimming spot. Only the eastern towers of the West Mebon remain relatively intact and they are carved with lively animals, the first Angkorian carvings of animals in natural, non-mythological scenes. It you walk along the shoreline of the island and look back you will see heaps of stones from the collapsed areas. The West Mebon is perhaps most notable for the discovery in 1936 of a large 6m long bronze statue of a reclining Vishnu, the statue now resides in the National Museum, Phnom Penh.